Travel & Food

Poverty in Mexico

by MomGrind

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The tiny Mexican house had no finished exterior. Just bare bricks and mortar. At first I thought it was still under construction, but when a woman and a little girl stepped out, I realized that a family was living there. Through the open door, I could see a white plastic table and a couple of plastic chairs. The yard consisted of dirt and a few cacti.

We ended up in the small, dusty Mexican town on Thursday, when we took the wrong exit off the highway on our way from the airport to Cabo San Lucas. Instead of going straight to the posh resort, we witnessed poverty in Mexico.

We also witnessed death. On the highway, numerous roadside signs implored drivers to fasten their seat belts, keep their distance, drive carefully and avoid driving when tired.

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As far as I could tell, there was no explicit warning about drunk driving, but the roadside was littered with empty beer bottles. It was also marked with crosses: simple, wooden crosses adorned with flowers. Later that day, the hotel concierge explained that the crosses were placed by grieving family members in memory of people who died in car accidents.

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Many of these roadside crosses are lovingly maintained by family members for many years: the cross in the photo is nearly ten years old.

We saw at least 20 crosses during a 10-kilometer (6 mile) drive. This is hardly surprising. Those very long and scary ten kilometers on a Mexican highway taught us that many local drivers drive as though they have a death wish. Add to that the bad roads, no lighting and drunk driving, and the results are devastating.

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Once we realized our mistake, we turned back and headed to Cabo San Lucas. It was a good weekend, filled with beautiful images of the picturesque beach, the carefree laughter of children playing in the pool, huge margaritas, great seafood and some serious pampering at the resort’s spa. But I couldn’t shake off the nagging guilt. My thoughts often wandered to the little brick house and to those awful roadside crosses. The contrast between the posh, well-manicured resort and the tough reality of the locals is absolutely mind blowing.

jumping-through-hoopsI’m on the phone with French Laundry – the best restaurant in Napa Valley and the only one in the Bay Area of California that managed to get 3 Michelin stars.

I am trying to make a dinner reservation for three weeks from today. The polite reservationist seems to chuckle a little at my request before she politely says, “I’m sorry, we are fully booked for that night”. I try the following night. No. Maybe lunch on that weekend? She coldly assures me that the French Laundry is fully booked, for lunch and dinner, throughout the next two months. “Would you like to get on our waiting list?”

I research a little and find out that to get a table at the French Laundry, you would need to make a reservation two months in advance and even then chances are you won’t get through to a reservationist in time to place your reservation (“you want a table at 6:30pm? Sorry, all we have left for that night is 9pm). I also learn that when the French Laundry was still accepting walk-in reservations, people actually drove 60 miles to the restaurant just to make a reservation.

Is it really worth it? Is the experience THAT good? I’ve eaten at great restaurants before, including 3 Michelin stars restaurants in France. I regularly dine at the very upscale Gary Danko in San Francisco (only 1 Michelin star, which amazed many patrons) and willingly jump through their reservation hoops, a pre-requisite to get a table there. But last time we went to Danko, my first course was a little too salty and the service, though attentive and polite, was a little rushed.

Frustrated with my French Laundry experience, I logged on to Opentable and found out that there are quite a few highly rated restaurants in Napa Valley that accept online reservations. Booking a table at one of those restaurants is a simple, straightforward process.

So for our next Napa getaway, I am going with a few of those. I heard someone say once that it’s better to dine at a 2-star restaurant on its way up than at a 3-star restaurant on its way down. For now, I am sticking with the talented chefs that are still working their way to the top.

Photo by katie cowden